Fed’s Red Back and Green Back Pheasant Variants

Fed’s Red Back and Green Back Pheasant Variants

A Colourful Twist on a Proven Chironomid Pattern

Looking for a fast, effective fly that catches trout in stillwater? Fed’s Red Back and Green Back Pheasant Variants are your answer.

This fly is a personal twist on Phil Rowley’s Green Back and Red Back Pheasant. Like Rowley’s original, it uses contrasting colours and reflective materials to attract trout. However, Fed’s version adds efficiency without sacrificing performance.

Why Contrasting Colours Work for Chironomid Patterns

Trout are constantly scanning for familiar shapes and flashes underwater. Patterns with contrasting colours reflect natural light in ways trout recognise.

Phil Rowley’s original pattern uses a dark pheasant tail body with a synthetic shell back. This creates a segmented, light-catching effect that looks like a real emerging midge.

Fed continues this idea but simplifies the tie. The result is a pattern that’s quick to tie and deadly on the water.

“It takes longer to read the instructions than it does to tie the fly,” says Fed. “Because I use Sheer 14/0 thread, I can make many—probably unnecessary—wraps without clogging the fly. The photo shows the red version. The fly tied here is the green one.”

When and How to Red Back and Green Back Pheasant

Use this fly in stillwater conditions, especially during chironomid hatches. It works well under an indicator or on a slow retrieve.

  • The gold bead helps the fly sink quickly.
  • The red shell back stands out in bright light or murky water.
  • The green version blends better in clear water and over weed beds.

Switch between red and green depending on water clarity and light conditions. Both provide that essential light “wink” trout love.

A Fast Tie With Proven Results

Fed’s Red Back and Green Back Pheasant is fast, flashy, and functional. It belongs in every stillwater angler’s fly box.

Try both colour variants and see what works best in your local waters. Trout often respond well to colour contrast—and this pattern delivers just that.

Materials

  • Hook: Scud size 12
  • Bead: Gold 1/8
  • Thread: Black Sheer 14/0
  • Gills: White poly yarn
    (about half a shank’s worth)
  • Ribbing: Fine silver wire
  • Body: Pheasant tail fibres
  • Thorax: Peacock herl
  • Shell back: Red or green floss
Fine silver wre
White poly yarn
Green floss
Red floss
Size 12 scud hooks
Gold beads, 1/8
Black sheer 14/0 thread
Pheasant tail fibres
Peacock herl

Tying Instructions

Hook with crushed barb and gold bead added, bead slid back from the hook eye.
  1. Prepare the Hook
    Crush the barb.
    Slide the gold bead onto the hook, small hole first.
  2. Position the Bead
    Push the bead back from the eye to give yourself tying space.
  1. Start the Thread and Add Gills
    Attach the black 14/0 thread behind the hook eye.
    Tie in a short length of white poly yarn to form the gills.
  2. Shape the Gill Base
    Trim the yarn at a sloped angle to form a smooth ramp up to the hook eye.
    This allows the bead to sit snugly at the front.
Thread started and white poly yarn tied in as gills, trimmed at an angle to form a ramp.
Bead pushed to the hook eye, thread reattached, silver wire ribbing tied in and thread wrapped to the bend.
  1. Move the Bead into Place
    Slide the bead forward to the hook eye.
    Reattach the thread behind the bead.
  2. Tie in the Ribbing
    Attach the fine silver wire just behind the bead.
    Wrap the thread back to the hook bend to secure the wire.

Remember: The last material you wrap forward is the first one you tie on.

  1. Add the Body Material
    Tie in 3–4 pheasant tail fibres by the tips at the bend of the hook.
  2. Trim the Gills
    Attach the fine silver wire just behind the bead.
    Cut the gills to match the length of the bead (roughly 1/8 inch)..
Pheasant tail fibres tied in by the tips and white gills trimmed to the length of the bead.
Pheasant tail body wrapped forward with space left behind the bead for the thorax.
  1. Form the Body
    Wrap the pheasant tail fibres forward to form a smooth body.
    Leave space behind the bead for the thorax and shell back.
    Tie off and trim excess.
  1. Add the Shell Back
    Tie in red or green floss behind the bead.
    Fold it back over the body so it lays flat.
Shellback floss tied in behind the bead and folded back over the body.

Palmering the Shell Back (Ribbing and Segmentation)

Wire anchored at the rear and first wrap made over floss to secure shellback.
  1. Anchor the Wire
    Make one turn of the wire around the bare hook shank at the rear to anchor it.
  2. Wrap the Wire
    Hold the shellback floss in place near the rear of the body.
    Make one turn of the wire over the floss to secure it.
  1. Continue the Ribbing
    Wrap the wire forward in even turns.
    Apply downward pressure after each wrap to seat it securely.
Silver ribbing wrapped forward in even turns over shellback, segmenting the body.
Wire tied off and trimmed, shellback floss also trimmed at the back of the hook.
  1. Finish the Ribbing
    Make two tight wraps of thread over the wire to tie it off.
    The last thread wrap will lock the wire in place.
    Trim both the wire and floss.

Finish the Body

  1. Add the Thorax
    Tie in a strand of peacock herl behind the bead.
    Make six tight wraps to form a dense thorax.
Peacock herl tied in and wrapped to form the thorax behind the bead.
Finished fly with herl tied off, whip finish completed, and thread trimmed.
  1. Complete the Fly
    Tie off the peacock herl.
    Whip finish behind the bead and trim your thread.
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Julian Tapping

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